Daniel Fletcher
The British Weather Is Not a Deterrent – It's a Test
If you photograph the UK landscape for any length of time, you quickly learn that the forecast is a suggestion, not a promise. A still morning on the Norfolk coast can turn into a horizontal squall before you've changed a lens. An afternoon on a Scottish munro can shift from blazing sun to hail in twenty minutes. Add sand, salt spray, and wind-driven rain, and your camera – however well sealed – is under threat. The good news is that you don't need expensive kit or a degree in engineering to keep things working. A few simple habits and a handful of cheap items will see you through.
Waterproof Covers: Simple, Cheap, Effective
You can spend a lot on a dedicated rain cover, but a clear plastic bag, a shower cap, or a poncho will do the job in a pinch. The principle is always the same: keep water off the body and lens whilst still being able to operate the controls.
- Plastic bag method: Use a strong zip-lock bag or a supermarket carrier bag. Cut a hole in the bottom just large enough for your lens hood to poke through. Secure it with a rubber band or gaffer tape around the lens barrel. Pull the bag back over the camera body and tuck the opening under your arm or secure with a clip. This gives you full access to dials and buttons.
- Shower cap: Perfect for a sudden downpour when you're not shooting. It slips over the camera and lens in seconds and costs pennies.
- Umbrella: A compact storm umbrella can be held in one hand or clamped to a tripod. It's surprisingly effective in upland downpours, though useless in strong wind.
- Dry bag as a liner: Line your rucksack with a dry bag or a heavy-duty bin liner. If rain gets into the bag, your gear stays dry.
Whatever you use, practise putting it on before you go out. Fumbling with plastic bags in a force 6 gale is no fun.
Silica Packs: Your Silent Allies Against Damp
Moisture is the insidious enemy. It fogs lenses, encourages fungus, and corrodes electronics. Silica gel packs – the little sachets that come in shoe boxes – are your first line of defence. They are cheap, reusable, and remarkably effective.
- Where to put them: Keep three or four in your camera bag at all times. Add one to each lens pocket and one in the main compartment. After a wet shoot, put fresh packs in with your gear overnight.
- How to recharge: Most silica gel packs can be dried out. Spread them on a baking tray and warm them in an oven at around 120°C for two hours, or microwave them in short bursts (check the pack first – some have an indicator that changes colour). Let them cool before use.
- Dry box: A simple plastic storage box with an airtight seal and a handful of silica packs makes a perfect home for your kit between trips. Add a cheap hygrometer to monitor humidity – aim for below 40%.
Don't rely on rice. It's a myth. Silica packs are far more effective and won't leave dust behind.
Beach Shoots: Sand Is the Real Enemy
Sand is abrasive, gets everywhere, and loves to scratch sensors and lens elements. Salt water adds corrosion to the mix. On a beach shoot, discipline pays off.
- Change lenses in a protected space: Never change a lens in the open. Use your car, a tent, or a large changing bag. If you must change outside, do it inside a big zip-lock bag or with your back to the wind.
- Use a prime lens: Zoom lenses act like bellows, sucking in air and sand. A fixed focal length lens reduces that risk. If you need a zoom, extend it slowly and avoid pumping it in and out.
- Keep the camera off the ground: Don't set your bag or camera down on sand. Use a tripod with tape over the leg locks, or wrap the legs in cling film. After the shoot, rinse the tripod legs with fresh water and dry them.
- Lens hood and filter: A lens hood keeps spray and sand off the front element. A clear UV filter is easier to clean than a lens – and cheaper to replace if it gets scratched.
- Blower first: Before you wipe anything, use a bulb blower to remove loose sand. Wiping sand across a lens is like using sandpaper.
A Cleaning Routine That Saves Sensors and Lenses
When you get home, resist the urge to stuff everything in the bag. A ten-minute routine will prevent long-term damage.
- Dry first: If your gear is wet, pat it dry with a microfibre cloth. Pay attention to seams, dials, and the tripod mount. Leave everything to air dry in a warm room – not near a radiator or in direct sun. Never use a hairdryer; the heat can damage coatings and seals.
- Remove batteries and cards: Wipe them dry and leave the compartments open overnight. Moisture trapped inside can cause corrosion.
- Clean lenses: Use a blower, then a soft brush, then a microfibre cloth. For salt residue, breathe on the lens and wipe gently. If you've been in salt spray, use a cloth slightly dampened with distilled water, then dry immediately.
- Sensor check: Only clean the sensor if you see dust spots. Use a proper sensor swab and solution – or get it done professionally. Sand on a sensor is a job for an expert.
- Store with silica: Once everything is bone dry, put it back in the dry box or bag with fresh silica packs.
Finally, check your insurance. Most UK policies cover accidental damage, but it's worth knowing what's excluded. Then get back out there – the rain and sand are part of the landscape, and with a little care, your camera will survive to capture it.
